Vimy

I recently read that a poll of Canadians showed that many are unable to tell if the battle of Vimy Ridge took place during World War I or World War II. It is sad to me to think that the great sacrifices made and indeed the nation building that occured during Vimy is unremembered by those of us who are benefiting from the sacrifices and nation building.  

My next stop after Dieppe was a city called Arras. Arras was a two hour drive away from Dieppe and just south of Vimy.  

On Saturday morning I drove out to Vimy Ridge National Historic Site of Canada. I think that everyone is familiar with the look of the monument that stands at Vimy as it is on the Canadian $20. The first place that I encountered at the site was the Visitor's Centre. On the porch of the centre, I could just make out the top of the monument in the distance, over the hills.  

There is something about seeing things Canadian when you are away from home. Like the Canadian flag that was flapping in the wind outside the centre, the Canada logo, the distinctly Canadian feel of the Visitor's Centre, the uniforms that the staffers were wearing (remember the Parks Canada pants Kim? Very similar), and actual Canadians. As huge and varied as Canada is, it still felt like home.  

When I entered the Vistor's Centre, there was a student group who had just finished their tour and were heading out. I imagine that they were high school kids from Canada visiting with their class. Other than that, there was only one other gentleman, a man from Ireland, in the centre. The staff member told me that there would be an English tour at 11 and that Francois would be giving the tour. I thought, THAT is so Canadian - a guy named Francois would be giving the English tour.  

I had about 40 minutes before the tour and was able to walk around the centre, look at the pictures are read all of the statistics and information about the Battle of Vimy Ridge and its place in World War I. Vimy Ridge was a really important area of German defence. French forces had, in the past, attempted to take the ridge without success.  

There was a video that was playing in the centre. During the video, it was explained that Arthur Currie, the Canadian military commander, worked to prepare his troops for the battle. In a competely unusual manner, Currie told all of the men from top to bottom about the plans. He had his troops drill and practice in order to prepare for the battle. He handed maps to the men (which was unheard of).  

The battle took place on April 9, 1917. Four Canadian divisons and one British division stormed the ridge that morning. Before storming, there was an artillery barrage. By the afternoon, the Canadians had capture all but Hill 145 (which was gained the next day). Although this battle is considered a major success, it came with great costs. There were 10 602 casualties. Of that number, 3598 were Canadians.  

I met Francois, with a group of others, at the Canadian flag, as instructed. The time I had spent in the Visitor's Centre saw the arrival of a number of other visitors, including a couple of other school groups. I could no believe how busy this place was.  

Francois explained that he was first going to take us into the subways that the Canadians had used during World War I. A system of connected tunnels were dug by Welsh miners. These tunnels were used for communication purposes and in order to pile soliders into prior to going "over the top". Standing in the tunnels, there was 8 metres of land above our heads. This depth was significant as mortors would not be able to read the men this deep.  

The tunnels are well lit and reinforced today. During World War I, there was underground lighting, however, it was extremely dim in comparison to our tour lighting. I know because Francois turned off the tour lights and showed us what it would have been like in 1917. The walls during the war would have been chalk and the floor, dirt (mud).  

We saw an undergroud rail system made of wood since that was quieter than metal. All of the soldiers had to work quietly underground as there may have been Germans underground in close proximity to the Canadians in their own tunnels.  

Our group was taken to a dead end of a corridor which opened up into a small room which would have been a location for communcations. Behind this small room was a smaller room with two sets of bunks. These bunks would have been used by the runners - those soliders who volunteers to run messages. The runners life expectancy was extremely short as they would be running messages in extremely dangerous situations. Despite this, there was never a shortage of volunteers, mainly due to the bunk they got to sleep in and the 6 times pay they received as compared to a regular soldier.  

Francois led us out of the tunnels and to the trenches. We walked through the Canadian trenches. Each of us were able to jump up on the step up - the step that the soldiers used in order to look out for Germans. When we exited these trenches, we were able to see a landscape that is green and grassy but extremely hilly, a really large crater in front of us, and a forest surrounding it all.  

The hilliness of the area is a result of the effects of the artillery shelling that took place during World War I. The result is a bumpy looking landscape. The green grass is currenly being mowed by a lovely flock of sheep. The really large crater that we were stading in front of was a result, not of a German offensive, but rather, a bit of Canadian defense. The Canadians strategically shelled specific spots of land due to the back lash that resulted from the blast. Land would blow out of the hole and create a man made defense that the Canadians could look out from behind.  

Francois pointed out that we were standing in No Man's Land. I was really amazed when he pointed to the German trenches - they were mere metres from the Canadian trenches. I hadn't realized that the trenches were so close together. But it was made clear to us that they was unsual as well. Generally, the opposing sides were not so close together. I also had the opportunity to walk in the German trenches. Their look outs were a bit more sophisticated than the Canadian look outs (remember the step up?) as they had acutally built pill boxes with with to peer out of.  

This was another eye opening tour. At the end of the tour, I chatted with Francois about how and why he was here. He explained to me that as a Canadian univeristy student, he had the ability to apply to the Federal Government for work experiece overseas. Francois is studying history. He told me that he has always had a deep interest in military history and that he was enjoying his experiece. Any Canadian university student, no matter what they are studying, may apply. You do need to be bilingual though. Any student who comes to work will be at their job for four months. I think that it is so wonderful that students have this opportunity. I am pleased that Canada encourages young Canadians to know their country's history and share it with others.

After the tour, I headed up to the monument. The monument is located down the road from the Visitor's Centre. It is surrounded by grass and then a circular, paved walking path. This monument is impressive. There are two tall pillars on top of a rectangular set of steps. The rock is limestone which came from Croatia. There are a number of figures carved on and around the pillars. The figures in turn look mournful, fearful, sorrowful, and thoughtful. The names of the 11 285 Canadian soldiers that were killed in France and whose final resting place is unknown. The monument is dedicated to the over 66 000 Canadians who died during World War I.  

I was able to walk up onto the monument and then chose to walk the paved path that circled around it. Unbelievablly, the areas on the other side of the path are marked with repeated warnings not to cross over as it is still possible that there are undetected and therefore undetonated, mines in the land surround the monument. One hundred years after the start of The Great War, the past is still present.  

Between the monument location and the Visitor's Centre are two cemeteries were some of Canada's war dead are laid to rest. As with all of the Canadian War Cemeteries, they are peaceful, well maintained places where people can pay their respects.  

Once again I was amazed that a place that had seen such bloodiness and horror was now, so peaceful. The forest is beautiful. The sheep peacefully meander over the mounds of earth. It is quiet on Vimy Ridge