Friday I travelled from Dumfries, Scotland to Windermere, Lake District, England.
I travelled by train with 2 changes. It looked like this: From Dumfries to Carlisle. From Carlisle to Oxenholme. From Oxenholme to Windermere. The journeys were great. Beautiful scenery going by. About two stops from Windermere the skies opened and it began to pour. Fortunately it had stopped by the time I arrived at my destination. I can't count how many rainbows I have seen since the beginning of my journey but I guess that is to be expected when the weather turns from rain to sun so often.
Haisthorpe B&B is located fairly close to the train station. The walk was all downhill so that was nice. I checked in around 4. After getting organized, I headed out to check out the town. There are two main one way streets in Windermere with shops and cafes in between the streets and on opposite sides of the road also. Most of the buildings seem to be built of grey rock that is laid on its side. The effect is beautiful. The town centre was fairly busy with car and foot traffic. I guess people are here for the weekend. Lots of walkers and cyclists come to the Lake District to hike and cycle.
I decided my visit to Windermere was going to be low key. Not too much touristy stuff. Just some hiking, running, reading, and relaxing. Saturday morning I enjoyed scrambled eggs with salmon on a bagel. This was a delicious breakfast. I met another guest who was visiting for a couple of nights. She was a family physician who worked in Manchester and would come to Windermere to work on a Saturday and hike on a Sunday. She is also trained in Emergency Medicine, and trekking and mountain climbing medicine, and is currently working on her studies so that she will be able to be called up by the British government to go to disaster areas or areas around the world that are experiencing emergencies.
I decided to run to Lake Windermere. It was about 2.5 km, all downhill. So, I made really good time. I walked around the harbour for a bit then decided to see how far I could run uphill (which is really quite steep). I made it, in intervals, for another kilometre. I walked the rest of the way back.
After showering and getting ready for the day, I decided to head to a cafe to grab some coffee and sit and read. As I was on my way to the cafe, I passed by the public library which had a sign about a display about Jewish survivors of the Holocaust. I headed up the stairs to the library. In the library, there was information about how Windermere had become a refuge for about 300 children in 1945 who had survived the Holocaust, were liberated, and because they had no family, were brought to England to recover. Since most of the children were boys (apparently the Nazi thought boys more valuable than girls as they could do manual labour) the were nicknamed The Windermere Boys. There were, however, about 40 girls in this group. The exhibit explained how the children arrived and where they were housed when the stayed in Windermere. There was also a tv playing interviews with the men and women who had once been those children. In a separate room, there were individual portraits of about 15 men and women, who had been a part of The Windermere Boys, a photo of them as a child, and a write up about their family backgrounds, their time in labour camp(s)/concentration camps, and their participation in death marches. Their biographies also included what they did after leaving Windermere, including their education, jobs, and family life. For me, the most touching part was that although each of these men and women had lost their entire family, they each had children and grandchildren, their family line still lives on no matter what evil tried to stop them. Also, many of the biographies ended with a quote from the individual and most often, their quotes expressed extreme faithfulness, gratitude, and messages about acceptance and love. It always amazes me who people who live through atrocities and extreme situations are still able to see the beauty in life and feel fortunate to merely be.
Another guest at Brambles Cafe talked me into enjoying the sticky toffee pudding with local vanilla ice cream. It was to die for. And there goes the running effort. But so worth it! By the time that I was done with the cafe, it was dark, cloudy, and rainy out. I headed back to Haisthorpe B&B to do some more reading as I figured being outdoors was going to be a right off for the rest of the day.
However, after about 15 minutes, the rain had stopped and the sun was shining. It looked so beautiful outside with the sun shining on the wet leaves of the tree across the street. As the saying goes, make hay while the sun shines, so I got dressed for a hike I wanted to do to Orrest Head Viewpoint. With the sun shining, I headed out. The trail started at the top of the village and forked to the left and the right. I decided to head left on the way up and come around in a loop. There are so many spots on this hike that were worthy of photographs. Everywhere I look was natural beauty. I don't think any of my photos will do the scenery justice but I did take quite a few.
It was about a 20 minute hike to the top which I was told would result in a type of look out over the surrounding area. The walk up was lush, wet, mossy, rocky, and beautiful. I was not disappointed when I reached the top. After walking through the forest, the top of the trail opened up and the view was 360 degrees. There were hills, lakes, farmland, sheep, cows, trees, and natural beauty all round. This is difficult to describe but there were benches at the top of the trail and I sat and took it all in.
I made my way slowly back down to the village and my accomodations for the night.
It was a foggy start to Sunday morning. I wanted to take a boat ride on Lake Windermere today and thought I would wait a bit until the fog lifted. The boat piers are about 2.5km from the B&B on a downhill walk. I set off about 10 at a liesurely pace. The weather was not too warm but not too bad either.
The gentleman at the ticket booth suggested that I take the boat up to Ambleside, a town about a 20 minute boat ride north of Windermere. He said there were some good trails and a nice village and with lots of cafes there. He also gave me a map of the walking paths that I could take in and around the village. I took him up on his suggestion. The ticket allowed me to get off at Ambleside and spend as much time as I wanted there and then return on another ride.
It was cool on the water but a pleasant journey. The fog was not thick enough to block any of the view. It drooped like ghostly fingers down the hillsides making a very interesting and changable scene.
I decided to take the walking path that follow the river, River Rothsay, the closest so that I would be near water as much as possible. The first part of the journey took me through Borrans Park and then to a National Trust area called Galava Roman Fort. This is the remains of a Roman fort that is located in a farmers pasture. There was interesting information posted about the Roman Fort.
Next, I needed to pass through gates to get to a boggy area to walk across, then through a farmer's field. I was lead to an area that was near a recycling plant. The information on my map told me to locate the footpath called The Rothsay Footpath. Up until now, the map and instructions had been spot on but I was having difficulty finding this path. I circled around the area a bit until a notices a small arrow, located behind a bunch of branches, titled Rothsay Footpath. This path was less a path and more a forest. The ground consisted of exposed tree roots, making the footing tricky. I stuck close to the river and followed along until I got to Miller Bridge. I wanted to continue to circumnavigate the village as much as possible, sticking to the forest and natural views. So I continued beside another farmer's field where sheep grazed and one man was using a metal detector to find... metal?
The path eventually ended when I reached the road and I followed that road around to the village. There was a wonderful Bridge House over the river. It was a very small house that was located near a bridge. I walked through the town and considered a few cafes. Nothing was appealing to me at the moment so I headed through town to the pier. The hike took me about two hours and I had worked up a bit of an appetite, so I had a bite to eat at the cafe near the pier. Unfortunately, people felt the need to feed the birds at the lakeside here. There were crows, pigeons, seagulls, ducks, geese, swans, and it was essentially my idea of hell. I was able to eat outside in peace but as soon as the people at the table next to me took off, the crows descended. And that was it for me, I hightailed it right out of the cafe. *Side note the homemade blueberry scone was delicious.
I was able to catch the 2:10 boat back to Windermere. I sat on the deck and on our way back the sun finally burned through the clouds and it was glorious. I sat with my eyes closed facing the sun and soaking in the warmth. It was lovely.
I arrived back on shore and faced the long uphill climb to my accommodations. I needed to make a pit stop for a healthy snack and a bit of a rest. But, since I am in the Lake District, famous of walkers, I wanted to get one more hike in before the day was done. Plus the sun was shining and I wanted to be outside.
The map that was provided to me by my host outlined a few hikes around town. Since I had already made it to Orrest Viewpoint yesterday, I decided to take the path that would lead me along the lake. This path had it all, road, paved footpath, sheep pasture (see my sheep selfie), beach, forest, lakeside and riverside. There were beautiful views from the top of the pasture which I shared with the sheep - although they were a bit wary of me. I walked along a public dock, at the beach, to the end and looked out across the lake. There were a few dogs swimming in the water and playing fetch with their owners. It was a beautiful and multifaceted walk.
Best part of the day was when I arrived back and was able to video chat with my family. It is Thanksgiving weekend. For those of you who don't know - I have The Best Family out there. I am so thankful for their constant support of me and generous love they have for me. I can't imagine where I would be without all of them.
I am especially thankful to be an aunt. Those who know me well will know that about me but I need to express that love all the time. I love Sage. She is intellegent, beautiful, compassionate, sensitive, and she still loves to hug me and sit on my lap whenever we get together. I am so glad that she still loves to spend time with me and hope that she will still give me lots of hugs when I get home (don't ever outgrow that). I love James. James is the happiest little guy. He is cheeky - in a great way, funny, full of joy, and totally loving.
I have fantastic siblings. Patrick and Anne-Marie are both gentle people who demonstrate sensitivity in their dealings with others. A way of living that I aspire to, and fall short of, but keep trying. Gemma is a wonderful sister in law who is a fantastic mom, raising James in a loving way so that he has turned out to be such a loving little boy, a total reflection of Gemma.
Mom and dad - throughout my life you have been so supportive of me, especially these past few years, where I have experiences some challenges with my mental health. Please know that I have felt that support and I so appreciate it. I am thankful that my family loves to get together, to hang out, and to laugh. That is the best. I love you all.
I am thankful too for all of the friends that I have in my life. If you are reading this blog post, know that I truly treasure you and thank you for your friendship - even if it is not something I say often.
Finally, I am so thankful for my job. That may sound funny as I am not working right now. But, without my job, and the clause in my contract that allows me to defer my salary, I would not be living the life that I am right now. The ability to travel, not always knowing what will come next, what is around the corner, and not worrying about any deadlines, is priceless. I am so thankful for that.
On a less serious note (and I know that last paragraph started off with "Finally", but whatever, I am not a professional writer - deal with it, I am so thankful for technology. Most importantly, technology has allowed me to easily keep in contact with friends and family back home. It also has allowed me to book accomodations on the fly. I have been able to research places that I am visiting for suggestions of what to see and do. Also, gps has saved me so many times and makes it easy to find my way from place to place.
It is definitely autumn. Each morning I head outside and smell the crisp smell that is so distinctly autumn. The trees are changing colour and are shedding their leaves. The leaves are crunching under my feet. Autumn is a great time of year and a wonderful time to be outside.
So, it is now evening on Sunday. I am just finishing my blog, will enjoy some tv shows, and then head to bed with a grateful heart and lungs full of all of that fresh autumn air.
Next stop, Newcastle