Friday morning began with a run along the waterfront. It felt great to get my legs moving again after so much sitting. News during my run reaffirmed my appreciation for my healthy body, two good legs, and the challenge that running provides for me. It is all about health and fitness rather than time and distance. Thank you universe for that reminder.
We started our day in a leisurely way as we did not have a time line. After breakfast we headed out to the Locks. The Canadian Locks is a National Historic site. The locks only work for pleasure craft at this point. There is about a 21 foot difference between Lake Huron and Lake Superior. The locks provide boats the ability to travel between the two lakes. Fortunately, when we were visiting, The Soo Lock Tour Boat came along from the Lake Huron side and we were able to watch the locks in action. Firstly, the boat moors inside the lock. Then the lock doors shut. Underwater valves open and fill the lock with water raising the boat up the 21 feet needed to be level with Lake Superior.When the water was level, Lock Master Steve opened the lock doors on the Lake Superior side of the lock, the boat unmoored, and was on its way.
A bridge on the lock door joined the two sides of the waterway. Sue and I crossed over the water as the lock master told us there were some rapids to visit. We headed over to Whitefish Island. Whitefish Island is First Nations land. A pathway has been created to follow all around the island which is 22 acres. Part way through the walk we came across construction to mimic First Nations' homes. They were skeletons of what the homes would look like and consisted of a fire circle in the middle of each structure.
As we continued along the path, we were able to hear the rapids more clearly. Part of the path way was washed out and we had to remove our shoes and travel through the cold waters draining from Lake Superior. But the frigid temperatures and the spikey footing was worth it. The path way led to a dock that seemed to sit directly on top of the rapids. We were able to sit and enjoy the water as it flowed past us.
We continued along the path way but it became impassable and we had to turn around and retrace out steps back to the locks. We returned the car to the hotel parking lot and walked on to find our lunch. Lunch was had at Cafe Natura, a local cafe that served fresh and organic food and coffee. We headed out to Ematringer/Clergue House. Here there is a newly open Heritage Centre. When we entered the centre we were greeted with a interactive exhibit about The War of 1812. Sault Ste. Marie was a strategic town during this 32 month war. We watched a movie that explained the history of the two houses on the property and the people who owned them and how they were crucial in the growth and development of The Sault.
After the film, a tour guide asked us if we would like a tour of the two houses. He said he really didn't want to give a tour but that noone else was willing to do any work around the place so he guessed he had to do it. With that enthusiastic greeting, how could we say no? Dispite of the greeting, our tour guide turned out to be knowledgable and witty. We were first taken to Ermatringer House. This is the oldest stone building north of Toronto. The Ermatinger family lived in this stone house from 1814 to 1828. Mr. Ermatinger was of European descent, Mrs. Ermatinger was a First Nations woman. Together, they had 13 children. Ermatinger was basically a trader who traded goods from Montreal for furs trapped by the First Nations people in the area. The tour consisted of the summer and winter kitchens, the parlor and dining room reserved for guests, and the upper floor which held the bedrooms.
Beside Ermatinger House is the Blockhouse. Originally located across town it was moved to this property for the purpose of conservation. The Blockhouse was originally a one storey powder magazine but later a second storey was added on by Francis H. Clergue. Clergue used the Blockhouse as his home and office from 1894 to 1908. He was responsible for helping to move Sault Ste. Marie from a small community to a thriving town through his investments in the Sault. As mentioned in my previous post, Clergue was responsible for developing the iron plant, the pulp and paper mill, as well as the hydro electric plant. The Blockhouse was small and , after the upstairs had been added, the downstaris become solely for business and the upstairs was Clergue's residence.
Our guide led up to the garden, where we sampled the raspberries, and then out through the gift shop. The tourist information alloted 45 minutes for this visit. We were there for two and a half hours and it was well worth the time invested, especially with our tour guide. The guide informed us that he was working on obtaining his Historical Interpreter's Certificate. After fulfilling his hours he would be able to crreate and provide tours at national historic sites. Needless to say, I think that he enjoyed the tour at least as much as we did. We had planned to head over to the Art Gallery of Agoma after we were done. Knowing that it closed at 5 and recognizing that we had 45 minutes left, we thought we may not have enough time. But we headed over to see what we could see. The gallery had only three exhibit rooms and was easily viewed in that short amount of time. We saw a mother and son exhibit that centered around honey bees. Richard Dyck's art was computer scans of bees inside the hive. The photos were not obvious and took a bit of looking to find what you were supposed to see. Mrs. Dyck's art was another thing altogether. She had placed objects (mostly common sports objects) into hives and left them there for weeks or months. The bees obviously continued their work of creating combs on the objects. Mrs. Dyck simply took the objects from the bees and displayed them as her own work. Isn't art grand?
Dinner was had in the hotel from our store of goods. We had had a full day and took some time to rest and relax. The last place that we decided to head was to the Lighted Cross, which turned out to be just that. Darkness comes a bit later in the Sault than it does in Guelph, so we headed out at about 9:30 as it was just getting darker, GSP led us to a part of town that we had not yet visitied and we were able to see the Lighted Cross from the car.
We had an early start on Saturday morning as our goal was to drive home the Canadian way. We had reserved a spot on the Chi-Cheemaun ferry from South Baymouth to Tobemory. Sue and I checked out of the hotel by 7am. We decided to skip the hotel breakfast and enjoy a Tim's on route. Our first goal was to drive the four and a half hours east to Wikwemikong. We passed through Elliot Lake and Espinola on the way. Two towns that I had only ever heard of before in my life and imagined that they were really far north.
Wikwemikong is home to the Anishinabe First Nations group. They were hosting their 54th annual Cultural Festival this weekend. Sue Ann and I were there for the Pow Wow. The Pow Wow began around 12:30 after a number of introductions from the hosts. There was a permanent circular structure where people could gather under for shade protection. In the center of the circle was a covered structure that housed the speakers. One section of the outer circle was designated for a number of different drum circles. Each drum circle had the opportunity to demonstrate their traditional drumming and singing in turn.
The Pow Wow began with the Grand Entrance. This consisted of all of the people who were participating in the dancing entering the circle and dancing around the circle to the beat of the drum. We were informed that the Grand Entrance was a spiritual ceremony. The participants would be dancing in prayer. We were in the presence of the spirit world. The staff bearers were the first to enter the circle. They staff were made of eagle feathers and bear fur. The flags of Canada, The United States of America, the Royal Canadian Legion, the Anishinabe followed the staffs. Veterns were represented by three women who had served our country. One of the flag bearers was a Royal Canadian Mounted Police officer dressed in uniform. Another was a vetern from World War II. Men, women, and children of all ages followed the staff and flag bearers into the circle. Everyone was dressed traditionally. Men and boys had feathers adorning their backs and as headdress. Women and girls had dresses and skirts that were adorned with bells and metal that would ring and clank as they danced. They danced around the circle until all members were inside the structure. The drums and the singing were so powerful and the dancing was very moving. The variety of people represented by the Grand Entrance represented the diversity of Canada.
The Grand Entrance lasted for about and hour and ended with a prayer said by an elder in the traditional language of the Anishinabe. Sue and I walked around the venue where traditional crafts were being sold. There were a lot of food venders as well but they were all rather deep fried. Next in the order of the day was the competition dances. Competitors were grouped by age and gender. Judges walked around and made notes about the dancers as the drums continued beating. Between each competition, the audience was invited to dance the circle as well.
As Sue and I had decided to take the Canadian route home, we needed to get to South Baymouth in order to catch the Chi-Cheemaun ferry across to Tobermory. We were told to be at the ferry one hour before sailing. Sue and I left the Pow Wow and headed to South Baymouth, looking for a cafe were we could enjoy a cup of coffee and a treat. We stopped at Carla's and Earl's Cafe in South Baymouth for that cup of coffee. As we were early for the ferry, we were able to walk around the docking area. South Baymouth has a few gift shops, each selling pretty much the same types of items. We walked around the docking area and toward the port where small boats were moored.
The final leg of our travels consisted of the ferry and a few hour drive back home. We boarded the ferry about 5:40 and set sail fairly quickly considering there were about 130 vehicles and additional foot passengers that disembarked and then the same number embark for the journey to Tobermory. The crossing is about 2 hours. We spent the entire time on the upper deck watching the water and enjoying the land we could see as we entered Tobermory. This lighthouse at Tobermory is very similar to the lighthouse I am most familiar with on Chantry Island off of Southampton. The Great Lakes are beautiful and the scenery is truly wonderous. I am often reminded that I am so very lucky to be fortunate enough to live in Canada and sailing across the waters where Lake Huron and Georgian Bay meet confirmed this once again for me.
