Memories

This will be my last post based on my trip to Newfoundland.

First of all, this trip would not have been possible without the extremely generous invitation to join Sharon and Kim on their Newfoundland adventure. I received a call from Kim early one morning as I was getting ready for work. She had heard from her sister that I would love to visit Newfoundland one day. Kim extended an invitation to me to join her and Sharon. I was extremely flattered and grateful for the invitation and told her I would get back to her with a decision. I tend to have a difficult time making decisions that I consider to be BIG. This time, it took the 17 minute drive to work for me to decided to join Sharon and Kim on their trip (a relatively short decision making time for me). As always, financial worries flooded my mind. But I remember the words of the very wise Mr. Paul Henderson when Adina and I were contemplating a trip to Halifax after third year of university. He said, "just go." Those were, and still are, very wise words. His attitude in those words told me to put my worrying aside and take a chance. Financial issues would work themselves out. Chance may never come around again, or maybe not in the same way at least. So my decision was YES. By that night I had already purchased my flight to St. John's.

Sharon had the entire trip planned. She had booked all of our accommodations, booked the rental car, and done an extreme amount of research about the best places to visit in Newfoundland. Essentially all I had to do (and Kim for that matter) was to show up. I will say that Kim did all of the driving for the entire trip so I guess I really had way less to do than Kim. Thanks again Kim for taking on all of the driving. You handled the premium car with grace and skill!

List time...

Looking back on the 16 days in Newfoundland, these are the things that I am grateful for:

1. Hanging out with two fantastic women.

• I learned that Sharon is a highly intelligent individual with a great memory and a fantastic sense of humour (I know this since she busted a gut at basically everything I said :) ).
• Having hung out with Kim more often than Sharon, I already knew that we got along well and could travel together. I already held and extremely high degree of respect for Kim for a couple of reasons. First being her ability to take chances in life. Second is her extreme expertise in her teaching career. I further learned that Kim is a really bad influence on me in the beer drinking and money spending departments ;)
• Laughing

2. Education

• I learned about parts of Canada that I did not know about before.
• I learned about the history of Newfoundland joining Canada.
• I learned about the history of resettlement.
• I learned about the Cod Moratorium from 1992.
• I learned the love that Newfoundlanders have for their province.
• I learned about the Norse that visited L'Anse aux Meadows over 1000 years ago.
• I learned about Lord Baltimore and the first settlement in North America at Avalon (Ferryland, Newfoundland).
• I learned that Newfoundland is made up of hills. And they are all going up when you are running them. But the terrain was a great challenge for running. Also, there were a lot of great hikes that we participated in and kept us moving and physical during our vacation. And, after visiting The Terry Fox Memorial in St. John's, my gratefulness for being able to walk and run was reconfirmed. Thank you Terry.
• I learned that Twilingate is the Root Cellar Capital (not sure of what but I guess there are a lot there).
• I learned that kissing a cod, in order to be made and Honourary Newfoundlander, can be an excellent way to transfer germs. But kissing the cod was a must as a visitor and really was a lot of fun. *Must remember to frame my certificate!
• I learned to match up places from Great Big Sea lyrics with the actual spots.
• I learned about J. Bruce Ismay, the man who built the Titanic.
• I learned that I really like Iceberg Beer.
• I learned that toast is a great jam delivery system.
• I learned that I can kayak.

3. My top three favourite parts of the journey:

• Kayaking at Norris Point in Gros Morne. I loved this for two basic reasons. First, the scenery is unmatched. Second, I was so unsure about whether or not I would be able to kayak at all. I know that two years ago, I would have not taken the chance. I did take the chance this time and I am so happy that I did. Not only was I truly able to kayak but I had so much fun doing it. I really had a physical and emotional high when the two hours was up. It felt like I was walking so lightly. This was a true moment of happiness for me. http://grosmorneadventures.com/adventures/sea-kayaking/
• Trinity. Visiting this small village was the best way to wrap up our vacation. We were able to relax in the truest sense of the word. Not only was relaxing on the menu but the village was the perfect place to soak up the beauty that is Newfoundland.
• Rugged Beauty Boat Tour was a fantastic boat tour. This tour is second only to the seven hour tour of Ieper that I participate in while in Belgium. Bruce was a very passionate tour guide and so proficient at story telling that I hung on every word and will remember the trials, tribulations, and successes of rural Newfoundlanders for a very long time. http://www.ruggedbeautyboattours.net/

4. Cafes

• I would be remiss if I did not mention small businesses that we enjoyed while on our vacation. It seems that in each community we were able to find a café that served excellent coffee and delicious treats with a warm and welcoming attitude.
• Twiligate: Canvas Cove Bistro http://icebergquest.com/canvas-cove-bistro/
• Norris Point: Justin Thyme Bean and Bistro http://justinthymebeanandbistro.ca/
• L'Anse aux Meadows: Coffee in the Cove. Cheryl does not have a website yet as she has only been open for about two weeks but has two excellent reviews on Trip Adviser.
• Trinity: Trinity Mercantile http://www.trinitymercantile.ca/
• Trinity: Aunt Sarah's Chocolates (not a café but worth a mention) http://www.auntsarahschocolate.ca/

5. Wildlife

• Moose (my tally was 8 in total). Our best sighting being the young moose standing in the ditch by the side of the road as we were heading to The Rugged Beauty Boat Tour.
• Eagle - we saw two. One eagle in Norris Point on the kayak adventure and one while on Trinity Bay with Bruce.
• Humpback Whales - we saw a number of them on the Bay Bulls tour and one off shore at St. Anthony's.
• Leatherback Turtle - we saw this endangered species on our boat tour out of Twilingate.
• Puffins (and seagulls) - we saw many of these birds on our boat tour from Bay Bulls.

6. Celebrity Sighting

• Yannick Bisson AKA Murdoch from Murdoch Mysteries. "Bloody Hell Murdoch"

7. Food and Drink

• Beer
• Coffee
• Chocolate
• Lobster, shrimp, and crab, oh my.
• Soup (I souped my way around Newfoundland)

Truly, the best part of the vacation was the fact that I have the ability to travel, safely, and learn and enjoy different parts of this great country. Being able to do that with two great travelling companions was a bonus and a gift.

Thanks Sharon, Kim, and Newfoundland for a great summer vacation filled with lots of love, laughs, and memories.

Full Circle

Wednesday morning we reluctantly left Trinity. Our drive to St. John's was about two and a half hours. We were all recognizing that the end of this fabulous vacation was nigh. But we had a few things to look forward to still. First off, we were going to meet up with Tracey once again. We were truly hoping that she had taken us up on our offer for her to make us some Bakeapple Tarts. We were also looking forward to the Quidi Vidi Brewery Tasting.

 

Upon arriving in St. John's, we checked in to our B&B and got in touch with Tracey. She invited us over to her house to meet her parents, enjoy a cup of tea, and eat a treat. She did not disappoint us. Tracey had expertly prepared Bakeapple Tarts for us as well as Tea Buns. Her mother was a pleasure to meet. We sat around and chatted the afternoon away. Later, we also met Tracey's father as he returned from a day at the Library.

 

Tracey accompanied us to the village of Quidi Vidi, acting as our navigator, and joined us in the Quidi Vidi Brewery Tasting. Mitch was our host. He explained the genesis of the company. Quidi Vidi is essentially the lone microbrewery in Newfoundland. They have 1.5% of the entire beer market in Newfoundland. There are a number of different brews to choose from, if you live in Newfoundland. Unfortunately, Quidi Vidi does not have the capacity to export to other parts of Canada - yet. Hopefully this tragedy will be remedied one day - in the very near future. Mitch explained how the founders and owners of the brewing company began to market their beer. The genius advertising campaign involved a university professor, in his skivvies, enjoying beer, and possibly something else... (see photo to fill in the blank). Iceberg Beer still remains my favourite of the beers we tasted. We were able to purchase a couple of Quidi Vidi glasses as a souvenir of our trip at the tiny gift shop below the brewery. Here is the link for Quidi Vidi Brewery http://www.quidividibrewery.ca/ Maybe we could all petition them to send us some of their beer!

 

After dropping Tracey back home and saying our farewells, we headed out to dinner. We ate at The Celtic Hearth. As it was the last night in Newfoundland, Kim and I decided to toast the evening with, guess what, a pint of Iceberg Beer! I also decided that I should really enjoy another lobster.

 

Overnight it rained all Wednesday. The morning began as a bit of a steamy, humid mess. Fortunately, after packing up and checking out, we could see blue sky peaking through the clouds. Since it was no longer raining, we decide to head up Signal Hill. The top of Signal Hill offers wonderful views of St. John's, the harbour, and the ocean. We were able to walk around, read up on the significance of the location of signal hill, and learn about Marconi. Here is a link that will teach you about Marconi's significance in wireless messaging. http://www.heritage.nf.ca/society/marconi.html The wind was so high at the top of the hill that the building was closed down to tourists who wanted to head to the top and look out over the city.

 

All three of us wanted to do some window shopping and possibly some purchasing so we wondered around on Water Street, peaking in on different shops that cater tourists. I purchased a funky painting of St. John's by artist Cara Kansala that I had admired in St. Anthony's. Here is her blog http://thegrumpygoatgallery.blogspot.ca/ and a picture of the painting that I chose.

We recognized that our time in Newfoundland was really coming to an end. We thought that one last sit by the harbour was in order. We found Iceberg Quest Boat Tour's headquarters. There we found three Muskoka chairs. We asked permission to sit and enjoy the view. For the last hour in St. John's we chatted with the crew of the Iceberg Quest Boat Tour. This, I think, was a really fitting way to end our time in Newfoundland. Simply chatting with locals. Throughout our stay in the province, I have found Newfoundlanders to be friendly, outgoing, welcoming, and funny. This final chat at the harbour of St. John's concluded our Newfoundland adventure in the most perfect of ways: being welcomed, making new friends, laughing, and enjoying the beauty of this magnificent province.

Rugged Beauty

Saturday and Sunday were spent in the car. We left L'Anse aux Meadows with our last stop at Coffee by the Cove to grab a java and say cherrio to Cheryl. 

Saturday was a rainy day and we had Corner Brook as our final destination goal.  But before that we also wanted to stop at the Tablelands in Gros Morne. The driving days were rather uneventful. Scenery was beautiful,  even through the rain. I spotted a couple more moose.

Unfortunately by the time we got to the Tablelands we were all rather road weary (me especially - Adina remember me after day one on our trip to Halifax?) and it was raining so we decided to skip out on the hiking trails and rest at the Interpretation Center then drive around a bit to get a look at the land formations. Here is some information, and non rainy pictures, about the Tablelands for anyone interested: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gros_Morne_National_Park

Arriving  in Corner Brook we stayed in a beautiful Inn that used to be a fairly large sized mansion.  Not too much to report here. We ate and crashed out to Seinfeld.

Next morning we were up and on the road to Trinity. This was the second day of long driving. Luckily, this time, I stocked up on The Mindy Project downloads to watch. I HIGHLY recommend this show to anyone with a sense of humour. Mindy Kaling is awesome. Between Mindy, a bit of reading, and admittedly a bit of napping, we made it to Trinity by about 3pm. 

We checked in at The Artisian Inn and discovered we had a lovely cottage type accommodation. There was a beautiful dock in front of the restaurant with Muskoka style chairs that were very inviting. Back to them later. After settling in we decided to take a walk about the village. Trinity can only be described as idyllic. As Kim mentioned she felt like we were walking around a movie set. Upon returning to the inn,  Kim and I settled ourselves on the dock.  Thankfully it was Happy Hour. We ordered up some Iceberg Beers and enjoyed the view and the refreshment.  

Together we decided that Thursday would be a day of rest. I am a proficient rester so I was happy with the plan.  After going out for a run, and seeing the entire village (some roads a few times) we ate breakfast and took our coffees, books, blankets, and restful attitudes out to the dock. And there we sat. And read. And napped. Sharon, not to be one to sit around, took herself on a hike. She returned to rouse Kim and me from our relaxed stouper in order to grab a bit of lunch. We headed out to Trinity Mercantile. I enjoyed the most delicious smoked salmon and we all enjoyed gingerbread cake with rum sauce for afters. We returned to our dock after a jaunt around town satiated and suitably caffeinated. Kim and I got right back in to our day of relaxing. 

We were told about a traditional Kitchen Party that was taking place that night in Goose Cove. We headed out and enjoyed three and a half hours of traditional music at the Lion's Club. We listened to vocals, guitar, accordian, omnichords, and a penny whistle. Kim befriended Henry, an ex-police officer who Kim sat beside, who gave us the low down on each musician. I may have participated in a bit of jigging during one particularly lively accordian solo. This was done to the amusement of Sharon and Kim. There may even be photographic evidence but it is not for public consumption. Most importantly, and rather flattering to me, Henry was highly impressed with my jigging ability. I am guessing I will be the topic of his conversation with other CFAs at the next Kitchen Party.

The owner of the inn recommended an historical boat tour to us in Bonaventure. There were two woldlife boat tours in Trinity and since we had already been on a couple of wildlife boat tours this trip we decided to take a chance on Rugged Beauty Boat Tours. Bruce Miller, ex-fisherman and prolific storyteller, is the owner and operator of Rugged Beauty Boat Tours. We got on a small fishing boat in Bonaventure and he took us around Trinity Bay, stopping at the Random Passage movie set, Kerley's Harbour, Ireland's Eye Island, British Harbour, and Bruce's cabin. 

As we toured around, Bruce told us the story of his family in these small fishing communities. His family story is the story of rural Newfoundland. Uncle Joe was a cod killer. This nick name denoted that he was an expert fisherman. Uncle Joe had the best equipment and tools and hauled a lot of fish.  Aunt Lizzie took care of supervising the salting of the cod on large stages after they had been headed and gutted. Aunt Lizzie also stood up to the formidable caller who assessed the quality of each fish - from choice to West Indies quality - to ensure that they would not be short changed. Bruce also explained to us how his uncle and crew set up their nets from the rocky shore for salmon fishing. Since the Cod Moratorium in 1992 it is now considered illegal to fish for cod. This moratorium has essentially haulted all ability for Newfoundlanders to be self sufficient. As Bruce explained, tourism has now become the main industry for rural Newfoundland. And it is well worth the visit to these small communities. 

At Kerley's Harbour and British Harbour, Bruce showed us photographs of the communities that used to exist in these harbours prior to resettlement. The photos showed the land at the harbours populated with homes, a church and the water filled with ships and boats. Today, we were looking at beautiful scenery with no community to be seen at all. When Newfoundland joined Canada in 1949, many communities were eventually resettled. Families were offered $1500 to move their home to more populated areas. Houses were literally lifted onto drums and floated across the bay to the larger comunities. Bruce's family was involved in the resettlement. Now, Bruce has built himself a lovely cabin at British Harbour, on Grandfather's land, and that is where we docked after about 2 hours. He welcomed us in and made tea for the passengers. While I was there I read some of an historical essay written by Bruce's grandfather which described how the area was settled and gave descriptions of the various people who inhabited the area. Unfortunately I ran out of time before I got to finish the essay. Time was up and we had to head back to the dock. Bruce's tour was the best way to learn about local history - from a man who lived it and who can retell his stories passionately.

We returned to the inn and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon on the dock. We were booked in for dinner at The Artisian Inn. This was a high class evening for us so I dressed up in my jeans. We toasted to Sharon's birthday. We were really treated to a delicious meal which included an appetizer, main, and dessert. We concluded our evening on the dock watching the stars come out over the water. Mid August is always a great time to watch shooting stars.  Each night we saw many shooting stars as we sat out on the dock curled up under our blankets. Kim craftly poured our own brew into tea cups for consumption that evening.  Disguising our Icebergs as honey lemon tea we even had Sharon fooled as she inquired where Kim had found the honey and lemon. :)

Next morning we were off to St. John's.  It is safe to say that we all had a difficult time leaving such a beautiful village.

I ♡ Trinity.

It's the End of the World As We Know It and I Feel Fine

Thursday

We left Rocky Harbour at 9 this morning heading for L'Anse aux Meadows. We were on the look out for moose the entire trip.  I spotted three today! Thankfully they have kept a respectable distance from the road.

We stopped at The Arches Provincial Park.  Very simply,  there is a rock formation just at the shoreline that looks like an arched bridge.

The drive to L'Anse aux Meadows was about 5 hours long. Along the roadside we kept seeing small fenced in areas that we later discovered were individual gardens that locals have set up. The reason they set them up along the roadside is due to the fact that the soil along the side of the road is more fertile for growing vegetables than say the land where their homes are located.  Road constuction crews have dug and mixed up the soil making if easy for gardening.

We have literally arrived at the end of the earth. At least that's what it feels like. We are at the most northern tip of Newfoundland. This area has exceptionally beautiful scenery but is rather desolate. Very small communities of housea scatter in clumps on the shoreline periodically. The best word to describe it would be peaceful. We easily found our B&B, The Viking Village, for the next two nights. 

After settling in we headed to L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site. This is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The land was originally a meadow as the Norse would have found it when they landed over 1000 years ago. We took a guided tour presented by Tina,  a Parks Canada employee. She clarified for us that the group of people who visited L'Anse aux Meadows was not Viking, they were Norse. The distinction?   Vikings are raiders. The Norse travelled to L'Anse aux Meadows for supplies, mainly lumber and grapes. They were travelling from Greenland where there was a community of 500 Norse.  About 90 people were set up at L'Anse aux Meadows. The Norse visited 4 times in total before the settlement was burned. 

On the grounds,  there is the original site of the settlement which has been excavated and is now grassy covered mounds. Past this section is a reconstructed site so visitors can get an idea of what the actual settlement looked like. The sod huts have 6 foot wide walls with R100 insulation value. The walls are made of a peat, sand, peat layer. The building was outfitted with items the Norse would have used while at the settlement. Guests are welcome to try on clothes, helemets, and pick up swords and shields. Since Viking exploration is a part of grade 6 curriculum, Kim and I thought it would be very educational for our students if they saw us in appropriate Viking/Norse gear. So thanks to our photographer, Sharon, we will both have excellent slide shows for our future students. The walk to and from the site was beautiful.

We headed to The Norseman for dinner. I enjoyed the butternut squash soup and some shrimp!

Friday

After my morning run and breakfast we discovered a coffee bar called Coffee by the Cove just around the corner from our B&B. We met the owner of Coffee by the Cove. Cheryl had recently sold her bookstore in Toronto and bought a house overlooking the ocean in L'Anse aux Meadows. She renovated the house into her cafe. The walls were painted brightly, in multicolours. They reminded me of the houses that line the streets of St. John's. her cafe has only been open for one week. Cheryl was interviewed by CBC Radio on Thursday. Cheers to the prosperity of her new business.

After being suitably caffeinated we headed to Norstead which is a not for profit replica of a Viking Village and Trading post. We visited the Chieftian's House, church, and the Blacksmith's Shop. But the true treasure of the site was The Snorri, a reproduction of a Viking ship. The Snorri was built in America and sailed from Greenland to L'Anse aux Meadows to replicate the journey of the Vikings. The journey took 72 days and the Snorri is now located in the boat house at Norstead. The highlight of the tour was the axe throwing activity. Guests were permitted to throw an axe over their shoulder at a large wood pile with the goal of getting the axe to stick in the pile. I was awesome at this skill. There is photographic evidence to prove it. 

And that's about all you can do in L'Anse aux Meadows. So we headed down the road to St. Anthony's for the view from the lighthouse, restaurant,  and mini museum. While finishing our lunch Kim noticed some commotion outside. A whale had been sighted. We rushed out to see a whale dip and dive its way around the bay. 

We enjoyed dinner at The Norsman again.  Tonight was lobster night. Lobster season is over but the resaurant keeps its lobster catch in the warf and feeds them until they are ready to be food. So my lobster was fresh from the ocean!

Looking for live music, Kim and I headed to the spot recommended by the waitress at The Norseman. We arrived at the club under the watchful gaze and curiosity of the locals. We entered the club to what can only be described like the town itself, peaceful. So...

We ended the day on our deck, toasting the ocean, and watching the day fade into night. 

A Gros Morne State of Mind

Tuesday

Knowing that we would be spending quite a few hours in the car today, I got myself up at 630 for a run.  Based on zero medical  knowledge, I figured that sweating out my cold would work.  My lung capacity allowed me to run for 25 minutes. I was pretty happy with that. Anyone looking for a good place to train should look into Newfoundland. Everywhere in Newfoundland is uphill. There are hills everywhere and they present a good challenge. Running along the water is a favourite of mine. I love running along Lake Huron when visiting mom and dad. Running along the ocean is a special treat. The water was exceptionally calm this morning. The sun was shining. My heart was pumping. Life is good!

We wanted to make a decent start for our drive to Gros Morne so we could have the maximum time at the park. We were packed up before breakfast. Enjoyed a very large meal, thankfully packed with protein, grabbed a coffee at Canvas Cove Bistro and headed for Gros Morne.

For a long time, Gros Morne has been a destination on my "To Visit" list. I am looking forward to attempting kayaking for the first time in my life. I am feeling a bit anxious about the thought of it but will take the chance!

We arrived in Gros Morne National Park about 230 this afternoon.  The scenery is magestic. We found our home for the next couple of nights at Gros Morne Cabins.  We are in Cabin 19 overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

After eating a late lunch of salad stuff we had purchased at Foodland we headed out to hike The Costal Trail. This trail consisted of a rocky beach and fantastic views. Still no animal sightings beyond a bunch of Canadian geese and some seagulls. After our hike, we were determined to see a moose or bear. Kim drove us through a section of the provincial park at a snails pace. Our only success was a bunny which I refused to look at out of principle.

Dinner was at a place called Java Jacks. The food was great but the service was a bit slow and I was getting really tired. You know when tiredness hits you like a  brick wall? That's what happened to me last night. But I still had laundry to do. Time to freshen up the confines of my suitcase. Laundry service was in a cabin close by. There was no one else there so I didn't need to watch over it. Kim and I enjoyed a drink and we watched a bit of  TV before heading off to sleep. Ready for our day of adventure in Gros Morne.

Wednesday

Up and ready for our kayaking adventure. We headed out to Norris Point about a 10 minute drive from Rocky Harbour. Norris Point is located at the base of tree covered mountains and the vistas were stunning.  Our kayaking tour was out of Gros Morne Adventures. Being thoroughly confused as to what day of the week it was, I had inadvertently booked our tour for Thursday instead of Wednesday. Fortunately, Pete was able to accomodate Kim and me in a two person kayak. This worked out well as Kim was the competent navigator taking up the back of the kayak. Admittedly I was nervous to try kayaking. The employees repeatedly assured us that we would be fine, we would not tip, that they had only had one person tip all summer. So we suited up. First off,  the life jacket. This made my day as I was sized Small/Medium. Go figure. Next we donned our Beluga Wear. This flatteringly name piece of clothing is basically the skirt that elastisizes around your waist and the part of the kayak where you sit. We hopped in and were given the briefest of instructions about paddling, steering, and what to do if we tipped. After this, we were pushed out to sea! Paddling for the first few minutes,  Kim and I found ourselves at the back of the pack.  Bob, the other leader, gently suggested a way that I could improve my technique. 

Our group stopped at the site of an old settlement where 12 to 15 families would have lived. Houses were relocates to Norris Point when Newfoundland joined confederation. We continued to paddle along the coastline.  Pete spotted a bald eagle in the tree tops. He was overlooking our journey. We spotted many jellyfish and the herring were jumping in front of the kayak. A beautiful waterfall was also a part of the tour. Our guides told us that whales and sharks may be seen on our journey but we saw neither. On our return journey, of which Kim and I were the fearless and ferocious leaders, we had the privilege of witnessing the bald eagle swoop in and snag a fish lunch. We tracked him as he settled on the side of the rock face to enjoy his meal.  Although his body was well camouflaged by his surroundings his head was an obvious marker so we would not loose sight of him. 

After the eagle had his meal, Kim and I found ourselves at the back of the pack once again.  We were so easily distracted by the bald eagle. The weather started blowing up for rain.  And rain it did.  We experience rain coming at us in a horizontal manner.  The water became choppy and Kim was scared for her life (and hopefully mine). Not wanting to be swallowed by whales or eaten by sharks that we know would appear if we capsized, we buckled down to business, kept sensible heads, and thought logically about the means and measures need to be taken in order to get to shore. *here it was important for us to channel our fur trading forebears. We asked things like, "does anyone know where we are going?" And, as the waves were crashing ferociously over the bow of the might ship, "what do we do?" The obvious and sensible things were to stop paddling, scream, and laugh our asses off.  Thank God for Pete. Ah, Pete. He successfully helped us navigate our way to shore. My major concern here was whether or not I could make a graceful exit from the kayak. It wasn't necessarily graceful but I will have you know I did not fall. I felt completely energized and thrilled after this kayaking adventure. 

Neither Kim nor I felt at all confident enough to bring our cameras with us on our kayaking adventure. Fortunately there was a member of our group that brought a waterproof camera with him. I handed him my email address and hopefully will get scenery pictures of our adventure later on.  

Since we had worked up such an appetite we headed to Justin Thyme for lunch. A great and delicious cafe in Norris Point. We fell ravenously on our lunches and enjoyed some hot coffee. We kayakers earned our meal. 

The afternoon was spent at Western Brook Pond on a boat tour. Once upon a time this pond used to be a fjord. The fjord no long exists but what remains is a breathtaking body of water surrounded by mountainous rock formations. The water is very pure. Wildlife is scarce but does exist. Pictures will never do Gros Morne justice but I still took a lot. Our boat tour was two hours. In order to get there we needed to take a 3K hike. This hike took us through forest and bog. Our only wildlife sighting was a seagull.  We were still on the lookout for the elusive moose. Our tour guide told us there are 4 moose per square kilometer in Newfoundland. 

After the walk back to the car were ready for dinner and relaxing. Due to my keen eyesight I happened to notice two moose in a field on the drive home. I alerted Kim and we were able to turn the car around and get a good look. Although they were a good distance away we were able to get some good pictures with our zoom lenses. Success at last. 

We enjoyed a later dinner at a local restaurant while reminiscing about our kayaking adventure.  Some of Kim's memories are a slight bit different from the way I remember the adventure. Either way, what a grand day. What a wonderful time spent at Gros Morne.  It should be the patriotic duty of all Canadians to make the trip to Gros Morne National Park Newfoundland,  a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

An All Seasons Sort of Day

Off to a slow but sunny start to Monday. Enjoyed another fantastic breakfast today. This time our hosts, Ruby and Mark,  joined us.  We sat at the dining room table with the French doors wide open exposing a pleasant breeze and another beautiful view. I just can not get tired of looking at the ocean.

Not feeling fully up to par, I have skipped out on another early rise for a run. I decided to take myself our for a walk for some fresh air and to stretch my legs. I walked the harbour for about an hour. Stopping on the bridge I was able to see a starfish and a few jellyfish. On my return I enjoyed a cup of coffee and a truffle while sitting at the end of the pier where we will meet our tour boat. 

We had a quick lunch and then, with anticipation, headed down to the docks to board Iceberg Quest Tour's boat. Dylan was our guide for the two hour tour. He explained that the last two times out they had not seen any whales. He also explained that it was currently shrimp season. We saw a lot of fishing boats in the harbour. Fishermen could be out for five days at a time to catch shrimp. Crab season had just finished. We headed out and thoroughly enjoyed the boat ride and scenery but were not successful in the whale watching department. Weather conditions changed as we travelled. Fog rolled in and covered part od the land. We were able to hear the sound of the fog horn as we past Long Point Island. We did however happen upon a gigantic Leatherback Turtle which was apparently a rare sight. Not only rare but this turtle was massive.  It was enjoying a jellyfish lunch. Hoping not to make the turtle feel left out, Kim and I enjoyed a liquid lunch of Iceberg beers.

Returning to shore, we took a couple of kilometer walk to Auk Island Winery just down the road from our B&B. For $3 we were treated to a sampling of a variety of their wines.  Sample included Krooked Cod (blueberry raspberry), Jellybean Row (strawberry  partridgeberry), Moose Joose (blueberry partridgeberry), and my favourite Rhubarb.

Speaking of moose, we finally had our first sighting (see picture). We are still holding out for a more authentic sighting.

My cold is defeating me. I headed back to the B&B for a nap before dinner. I woke up and it was raining! It really was an all weather type of day.  We are once again at Canvas Cove Bistro. That place never disappoints! 

Early night for me.  Going to pack and sleep. Ready for Gros Morne tomorrow!  Cannot wait for the next part of our adventure. 

Anyone interested in reading more about Twillingate here is the website: www.twillingate.com 

Anyone interested can also look to www.ferryland.com

Why Follow a Straight Path When You Can Follow Sharon?

Sunday

We arrived in Twillingate about 5pm yesterday. Time enough to check into The All Seasons B&B and find a place to eat. A couple of stops from our B&B is Canvas Cove Bistro. We were treated to delicious food prepared by Chef Nick Jewczyk. I enjoyed the homemade sweet potato soup and a cup of hot water with lemon to soothe my sore throat. A cold was coming on. Needless to say, I did not live up to my previously mentioned nick name as I was neither one eyed nor red faced yesterday. Just call me a Saturday teetotaler!  No worries, Sharon made up for my lack of alcohol intake yesterday as she enjoyed an ample glass of wine for dinner. The result of her consumption was a meandering path back to the B&B.

For me, it was an early night to try to sleep off this threatening cold.

Feeling a bit under the weather today, I skipped my run and loaded up on oil of oregano, OJ, Fisherman's Friend, and Advil Cold and Sinus. That combination had me feeling a fair bit better by this afternoon. 

After breakfast, we headed out to Crow's Head to take in the views from the only still manned lighthouse in the area. The vista was outstanding! It is rather difficult to describe the magestic beauty and pictures will never do the views justice. We sat admiring our surroundings for quite some time before heading into the lighthouse. Inside the lighthouse there was a Titanic Musuem. Basically there were about 50 boards with write ups about the Titanic from its inception, construction, voyage, disaster, and some aftermath. Although I have been to a number of Titanic exhibits before (Halifax, Southampton, Missouri) the fascination still exists and new learning always takes place.  Bruce Ismay, who was chairman of The White Star Lines, turned out to be a bit of a shit really. Ismay hopped on a lifeboat to save his life, leaving 1500 ppassengers and crew to perish. The White Star lines made the decision

to stop paying any surviving crew members at 2:20am, the moment the Titanic sank!

We had a light lunch and a plan to hop on a boat for a whale watching tour at 4 pm.  Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate so we will tour tomorrow.  We headed down to the harbour to get a cup of coffee and visit the Newfoundland Chocolate Company. Walking back we discovered four vacant Muskoka style chairs where we decided to sit and enjoy our coffee (and me my chocolate).  Sitting at the oceans edge is very peaceful. So much so that I enjoyed a nap, falling asleep to the sound of the water lapping the shore. 

We were out for dinner once again to Canvas Cove Bistro. We are becoming regulars. I enjoyed their turkey vegetable soup. Looking out over the harbour we could see clouds and rain in the distance. Returning to our B&B we decided to partake in a couple of Iceberg Beers while sitting in the grassy hills overlooking the ocean that is the B&B's backyard. We sat for a couple of hours enjoying the beauty of our surroundings, watching a storm pass by, singing along to olde school and new tunes, chatting, and laughing (as you all know I am pretty funny - my companions aren't bad either!).

Another fantastic day on The Rock, b'y. Looking forward to our whale sightings tomorrow!

Man of a Thousand Schemes.

As recommended by Charlie.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0_6Efvj1bY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

One Eyed Girl with a Red Face

The name of this blog post is courtesy of Sharon who gave me the nick name as we were enjoying our dinner theatre last night on Ferryland. The play was put on by local actors who dramatized the hey day of Newfoundland in the 1950s. The red face nick name came about as a result of the slight sun burn I received as a result of a full day out in the lovely Newfoundland summer. I will get to the one eyed part of the nick name later.

My day started off with a run. I need to keep up with the running to counterbalance at least a bit of the effects of the beer (slight hint about the one eyed nick name here). Luckily my run was entirely uphill with beautiful views of the ocean. Pretty sure I saw a moose print.  So far, besides signage and guarantees that they are out there,  that is my sole moose sighting.

So, our day began with a visit to the interpretation centre in Ferryland. Ferryland is the site of an archaeological dig that has been under way for 20 years. We participated in a guided tour with Randy as our excellent leader. The site is the oldest settlement in North America, dating back to the 1620s.  We walked across history as we crossed the oldest cobblestone street in North America. This site has also uncovered two gold rings, a rare and exciting find for the times. Archaeologists were working on the site and we were told there is at least 40 years more of digging to be done.  So far, 2 million artifacts have been discovered. As we were touring, an archaeologist handed Randy two pieces of pottery that had just been discovered!  The site has original and reconstructed aspects to it demonstrating where different parts of the settlement were orininally located. These included the forge, the ale house, Lord Baltimore's mansion house, the tavern/stable, privy, well, and the garden.  The garden currently grows vegetables and plants used for medicinal purposes that the settlers would have grown. Our tour took us to a kitchen house where we met up with another guide who told us about different pottery and treated us to some fresh bread.  A quick stop at the gift shop and we were done.

We headed back to the B&B to stock up for our afternoon of hiking.  We packed a lunch and made the 2.5K hike, uphill, to the lighthouse at Ferryland. The lighthouse is now automated but some ingenious entrepreneur has turned the house into a place where picnics can be ordered and lemonade can be drunk.  The lighthouse picnics, being a rather popular attraction, are fully booked until late August. Having brought our own food, Sharon treated us to a glass of The Best Lemonade, and we settled down to enjoy lunch and some truly spectacualr views. We were treated to a visit from a humpback. Props to Kim for spotting  this whale just off shore.  All of my sightings have been birds that I mistake for a whale.

A day can sure fly past in this province. We returned to our B&B to revive ourselves after all of the activity and prepare for our dinner theatre experience.

So, the one eyed nick name?  Let's just say Kim told me that this province makes her want to drink for some reason.  I told Kim that she must be my Newfoundland then. It is our patriotic duty as traveling Canadians to sample local brews whenever we can. So we have. We are nothing if not true patriots. Iceberg beer has turned out to  be our favourite so far.  While enjoying these brews I sometimes find it a bit easier to focus when one eye is closed hence the first part of the nick name. Shortly, I am sure, Kim and I will be able to invent a ni ck name for Sharon as she has demonstrated a propensity for Bailey's and wine in the same day. Stay tuned. 

The Dunnes was an exceptional bed and breakfast with fabulous hosts Maxine and Charlie. We were treated daily to stories that were filled with humour and helpful advice.  Kim and I may have managed to drum up some interest and possible business for The Dunnes through our "Honk At The Stunning Gals Sitting In Front of The Dunnes While Enjoying an Iceberg Beer" campaign. They will likely thank us later!

Today we are spending quite a few hours driving as we head north to Twillingate for the next stop in our adventure. The landscape of Newfoundland is reminiscent of the Scottish highlands, bits of Ireland, and parts of Muskoka all combined.

Bloody Hell Murdoch

We made it to Ferryland last night and checked into The Dunnes B&B where we met owners Maxine and Charlie. The Dunes is directly located on the ocean.  All bedrooms face the water. The home and the rooms are beautiful. 

After steeling in we went out for dinner at Riverside Restaurant. Enjoyed homemade turkey soup.  Kim ordered a very large vegetarian pizza which worked out well for us today.

This morning we were treated to  a lovely cooked breakfast. We headed out to Bay Bulls for our whale and puffin watching boat tour. As we checked in, I noticed a gentleman I recognized - the actor who plays  Murdoch on CBC's Murdoch Mysteries.  So we were celebrity cruising! We were asked to sign a waiver to allow our photographs to be taken for the following years pamphlet. So maybe next year our faces will be advertising O'Brien's Tours.  Our tour began with a song from our tour guide and instructions on what to do if we were sinking. Shortly after the start of the journey we saw our first humpback whale!  This whale showed his fin and tail for us a few times before diving.  We headed out to an island filled with seagulls and puffins. On our return to dock we saw three more humpbacks!

The Irish Tearoom was where we enjoyed our lunch this afternoon. This tearoom also over looked the ocean. On the way back to our B&B we picked up a couple of local beers to enjoy the afternoon.   We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the sun enjoying the view and the local brews. Dinner was Kim's leftover pizza from the night before.

Our day was capped off with a walk to the beach where we were skipping stones - Sharon was the only one to do that successfully - and enjoying the fresh salt air.

We are here tonight and tomorrow night before heading out on the next phase of our adventure.